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離開是為了回來跑個馬拉松

2024 年 1 月 21 日,我在香港跑了人生第一個馬拉松,3 小時 50 分鐘完成。

RUNNING MY FIRST MARATHON IN HONG KONG

I ran my first marathon on Jan. 21, 2024 in Hong Kong, in 3 hours 50 minutes.

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衝線的一刻。

2022 年 9 月,我和另一半和兩隻貓從香港移民到加拿大,不經不覺已在外國生活了一年多。在這邊沒有家人和朋友在身邊,生活多了點寂寞,但亦多了時間去跑步。以前覺得跑馬拉松這件事情很瘋狂,(怎可能連續跑這麼多個小時???)但這年來跑著跑著,越跑越多,突然有一天覺得跑馬拉松這回事好像不太遙不可及。

膽粗粗報名抽籤 2024 年 1 月的香港渣打馬拉松,竟然給我抽到。

香港

有朋友問「加拿大無馬拉松咩,點解要返香港跑?」

搬離了家鄉,回去的時候每走一步路都特別珍惜。我反問「人生第一個馬拉松,怎能不在我最愛的地方跑?」

我在 2020 年開始跑步,那時住在藍田茶果嶺。茜草灣運動場、觀塘海濱,沿茶果嶺道跑至鯉魚門,都是我常跑的地方。我喜歡行山,經常在附近的飛鵝山、魔鬼山走來走去。那時多了跑步行山,體能變好,2022 年我還在離港前走完了香港四條長途遠足徑:港島徑、衞奕信徑、鳳凰徑、麥理浩徑。記得在完成麥理浩徑的最後一天,也是即將搬離香港的日子。在四方山上看著日出,俯瞰香港各處,回憶著走過的地方,心裡滿是感觸不捨。老套地引用近幾年流行的一句⋯⋯ 我真係好中意香港。

決定離開,就像分手一樣,分了手總不能經常探望前度。一直在掛念香港但沒想到有什麼原因要回去,但有一天「要回香港跑人生第一個馬拉松」這個念頭進入了我的腦袋後,回港這個決定便變得很簡單。

香港渣打馬拉松路線圖

期待在我長大的香港,跑人生一個馬拉松。

汀九橋

九龍

獅子山

青馬大橋

青衣

長青隧道

往機場

南灣隧道

昂船洲

大橋

以前鋪頭

我間中學

彌敦道

準備人生第一次

用自己雙腳過海

西隧

尖沙咀

中環碼頭

維園

幾年前成日喺度行嚟行去

香港島

汀九橋

青馬

大橋

青衣

長青隧道

南灣隧道

九龍

昂船洲

大橋

獅子山

往機場

以前鋪頭

準備人生第一次

用自己雙腳過海

我間中學

彌敦道

西隧

中環碼頭

尖沙咀

香港島

幾年前成日喺

度行嚟行去

維園

汀九橋

九龍

獅子山

青馬大橋

青衣

長青隧道

往機場

南灣隧道

昂船洲

大橋

以前鋪頭

我間中學

彌敦道

準備人生第一次

用自己雙腳過海

西隧

尖沙咀

中環碼頭

維園

幾年前成日喺度行嚟行去

香港島

關於練跑

成功報名參加馬拉松後,便開始數個月的地獄式訓練。看了一堆網上資料、參考書、跟跑過馬拉松的朋友談過後,決定把目標定在 4 小時內完成。

每個星期練跑四次,一次田徑場間距練習(以最快速度跑 800m,休息再重複),兩次中距節奏跑(8 - 10 km,盡量以我的馬拉松目標配速跑 5:27/km,讓身體牢記那個速度),一次長課(20 - 30 km)。本來有點無聊的生活變得忙碌起來,尤其周日兩個多小時的長課後極度疲累。跑後吃個大餐,可能晚上 8 時已經有睡意(好像跟上了加拿大的生活節奏)。

有時想,在香港未必能跟上一個這麼頻密的訓練時間表,總有這個那個朋友要約。但在温哥華認識的人兩隻手數完,隔日的跑步訓練就是我最常的約會。這陣子還滿對得起自己,只是略過了兩、三次訓練。移民後沒有了香港多姿多彩的生活,但在加拿大較平淡的日子讓我多了時間好好練功。

我的練跑記錄

四個月來,每個星期四次練跑我幾乎都沒有偷懶。練習的高峰,一個星期總共跑了 60 km。

資料來源: My Strava

剛開始練跑的時候辛苦到不能,尤其是周日的長課,跑到最後感覺快要斷氣似的。但漸漸習慣了這麼多的跑量,開始享受一天花數小時專注去做一件事情。跑步練習也讓常宅在家中的我多了外出享受温哥華的景色。這邊有個公園叫 Stanley Park,第一次到那兒看風景時讓我們嘩言,但住久了便少了去。開始了馬拉松訓練後,幾乎每個星期日都會圍繞整個 Stanley Park 跑一次。跑到 Stanley Park 北面可以看到一望無際的太平洋,有次想到海的另一邊就是香港,想起那邊的家人和朋友,期待著跑馬拉松時與他們相見。

每星期日都會跑的 Stanley Park。有次練跑時想到,太平洋的另一邊就是香港。

好喜歡一個跑步教練的比喻,練跑就好像存款入銀行,比賽那天就是提款。儲存得越多,比賽就越多錢可以提出來。在生活上,有時你花很多時間去做一件事,都沒有太大成果,但在跑步的路上,只要你願意一步一步跑下去就可以了,這是我很喜歡跑步的原因。

我的長課記錄

每個星期日的長課,從家中一直跑到 Downtown 再圍繞整個 Stanley Park。四個月來總共跑了 13 次長課,包括兩次跑 30 km 的距離。那兩次雙腳痛到不行,不能想像如何能完成一場馬拉松。

資料來源: My Strava

大日子

跑馬拉松的前夕我整天坐立不安,這一段時間的努力終於到了驗收的日子。我在馬拉松的前兩天回到香港,十多小時的長途機、時差、緊張,兩天都只睡了三、四個小時。睡眠不足的我在香港街頭上走著,感覺像在發夢。很感激有些人和事還未改變,包括大坑順興的炒蛋菠蘿油。

馬拉松前一天吃的炒蛋菠蘿油,希望它賜給我力量。

馬拉松訓練的最後兩星期叫做調整期,在比賽前減少訓練讓身體進行修復,以最佳狀態進入比賽。習慣了四個月來的密集訓練,減少跑量真的讓我很不自在更加緊張,朋友告訴我要「trust the process」。在馬拉松的前兩天都輕輕跑了 3 km,不停提醒自己要注意

比賽日凌晨三時便起來吃早餐喝咖啡(昨晚和家人吃了滿滿澱粉的晚餐還未完全消化...)。穿上四個月以來每星期都穿上的跑步服裝,跟自己說,今天跟平常的星期日長課一樣,輕鬆點吧!

爸媽都醒來送我出門,阿爸幫我包紮著小腿經常會痛的地方,阿哥送我到車站。

到了尖沙咀近起跑線附近,場面很熱鬧。跟數千人擠到起跑線上,我還排了兩次隊去廁所(真的好緊張!)

進入起跑線!

起跑了!一開始在彌敦道上跑,漸漸天亮,感覺好不真實,想著曾幾何時在沒有車的彌敦道上跑過,想著這幾個月來練跑的辛酸,想著這幾年來經歷的苦,眼眶開始濕了... 我大力地搖頭跟自己說要振作、要冷靜、要呼吸,我還有 42.195 km 要跑!

到起跑線時,慢慢開始天亮。

頭 10 km 還算輕鬆,畢竟也有足夠的訓練。但應該是因為緊張,很快又想上廁所了。在昂船洲大橋上走進一個流動廁所,看到畢生人看過最高的 * 山,立刻掉頭走,幸好下個廁所比較乾淨。

一直繼續跑一直不停地過人,狀態不錯。當雙腳出現任何疼痛,便跟自己說「not today!」跑過汀九橋後,便代表過了半馬的路程,時間還在兩小時內,暫時估計應該能達到自己四個鐘的目標。

汀九橋,大概 19 km。

怎料... 大概 27 km 時,我們跟半馬的人群合併,路上擠擁到不能,簡直像逛年宵市場一樣。更甚是半馬的人群速度比我慢很多,我就一半粗口一半唔好意思地穿插著在人群中,盡量維持自己的配速。

想起有個中學同學跑半馬,我開始在人群中尋找她。我看見個跟她十分相似的背影,便大叫「 JOYCE CHAN!JOYCE CHAN!」正當我要拍她肩膀時,便看到那不是我朋友,我立刻衝到路上的另一邊。這段小插曲讓我在這段加速了一點。

然後來到整場馬拉松的高潮 — 西。西隧大上斜後就只剩大概 5 km。如果過了西隧還在狀態,餘下的就可以大膽地加速。另外,用自己雙腿過海相信對香港人來說也是個人生難得的經歴。我看著西隧的入口深呼吸了一下,叫自己好好記住這一刻,繼續保持速度前進。

進入西隧後,四周開始傳來「加油呀」「頂住呀」等呼叫聲。很久沒有在香港街頭上大叫的我,也盡情放聲吶喊。聽著這些叫聲,在沒有車、全是人群的西隧中跑著,好像時光倒流至 2019 年,我不禁哭了起來。

有跟朋友分享西隧這個感動位,還誇張的說應該全部人都在哭,事後在網上看新聞才發現,有參賽者說: 「入到西隧,有人喺我隔離係咁鳩叫,嚇 L 死人。」原來不是所有人都被感動,只是被嚇到。

西隧後段開始上斜,人群越跑越慢,有些人更開始步行。離開隧道後再上天橋轉向中環碼頭,這段應該是全程最擠迫的。我開始為自己四小時的目標著急,我瘋狂地在人群裡擠出空位繼續向前。

到了中環碼頭,是至此最多人打氣的地方,我也靠大家的打氣聲繼續堅持下去。經過最後一個補給站,好像喝了太多水和運動飲品。本來準備在最後 5 km 加速,但一加速卻有一點想要吐的感覺。這段真的要使出意志力強迫自己不要吐,

灣仔海傍,最後 3 km。

灣仔轉到銅鑼灣前還有一條天橋,最後一個上斜,又是有大量人群在步行堵塞跑道。這時我簡直心急如焚,開始大叫著唔該,猛力向前速。

然後便看到 SOGO,就知道是最後直路了。轉入維園時,我用跑 100 米的力度全速衝至終點。

最後,我在 3 小時 50 分鐘完成了人生第一個馬拉松。

衝線的一刻。

阿哥在比賽完成後捕捉我的死樣。

我在跑渣馬的前幾天,找來了中學時讀過的【牧羊少年奇幻之旅】(The Alchemist)再看一次。書中有一句「當你真心渴望某樣東西時,整個宇宙都會聯合起來幫助你完成。」(When you want something, all the universe conspires in helping you to achieve it. )

比賽日天氣完美,起跑時在彌敦道上感觸落淚,在西隧激動吶喊,在維園衝線後和家人朋友緊緊擁抱,還有多謝在網上追蹤著我那粒點的朋友,這場馬拉松好像讓我感受到整個宇宙的力量。

這幾個月來一直以為最想達成的是在「四小時內跑完馬拉松」,但這個宇宙比我更了解我自己,原來我一直渴望的是: 離開就是為了回來。

Crossing the finish line.

A few years ago, running a marathon had never even crossed my mind. But maybe it was something about turning 30, or reading Haruki Murakami’s book on running, or realizing that drinking can’t solve all my problems… So I started running a few years ago.

But it was really when I moved to Vancouver in September 2022 when running became a more constant part of my life. My partner and I, along with our two cats, moved to a new city where we barely knew anyone. With a lot less friends and family and a lot more time on my hands, I started running more and more. Then at some point, the marathon went from being a ridiculous idea (why would anyone volunteer to run this many hours straight????) to something that felt doable.

Before I could talk myself out of it, I signed up for the Hong Kong marathon in January 2024.

HONG KONG

“But wait, don’t they have marathons in Canada” you might ask.

Moving away again this time was really hard, but I cherish my every visit back. How could I not run my first marathon in Hong Kong?

I began running regularly in 2020. I had just moved back to Hong Kong after being away for almost ten years. The big life change was stressful, but when I ran I didn’t have to think. I ran near where I lived in Cha Kwo Ling, along the Kwun Tong waterfront, all the way to Lei Yue Mun. I also started trail running, regularly doing loops to Kowloon Peak or Devil’s Peak from my house and back.

Before I moved away, I also did the Hong Kong Four Trails: Hong Kong Trail, Wilson Trail, Lantau Trail, Maclehose Trail. I remember watching the sunrise on top of Sze Fong Shan on the last day of the Maclehose Trail, days before I was to leave Hong Kong. Seeing all the places I’ve walked across the city then, I felt reluctant to leave.

Leaving the city was kind of like breaking up, you can’t really go back and visit your ex all the time. I missed home but I had a hard time coming up with reasons to visit. But when the idea to “run my first marathon in Hong Kong” popped into my head, it was easy to decide to go.

HONG KONG MARATHON ROUTE

Running my first marathon where I grew up.

TING KAU

BRDIGE

KOWLOON

TSING MA

BRIDGE

LION ROCK

TSING YI

CHEUNG TSING

TUNNEL

TO AIRPORT

STONECUTTERS

BRDIGE

LKK STORE

MY HIGHSCHOOL

NATHAN RD.

first time to cross

the harbor on

my own two feet!

Western Harbour

Crossing

TSIM SHA

TSUI

CENTRAL

PIER

VICTORIA PARK

WALKED AROUND

HERE A LOT A FEW

YEARS AGO

HONG KONG

ISLAND

TING KAU

BRDIGE

TSING YI

CHEUNG TSING

TUNNEL

KOWLOON

STONECUTTERS

BRDIGE

LION

ROCK

TO

AIRPORT

first time to cross

the harbor on

my own two feet!

LKK STORE

MY

SCHOOL

NATHAN RD.

Western

Harbour

Crossing

CENTRAL

PIER

HONG KONG

ISLAND

TST

WALKED AROUND

HERE A LOT A

FEW YEARS AGO

VICTORIA

PARK

TING KAU

BRDIGE

KOWLOON

TSING MA

BRIDGE

LION ROCK

TSING YI

TO AIRPORT

NAM WAN

TUNNEL

STONECUTTERS

BRDIGE

LKK STORE

MY SCHOOL

NATHAN RD.

first time to cross

the harbor on my

own two feet!

WESTERN

HARBOR

CROSSING

CENTRAL

PIER

TST

VICTORIA

PARK

HONG

KONG

ISLAND

WALKED AROUND

HERE A LOT A FEW YEARS AGO

MARATHON TRAINING

After some research and talking to friends who have ran marathons, I decided to set a goal time of four hours.

I ran four times a week. One interval run at the track (run as fast as you can for 800 meters, then rest and repeat), two tempo runs (8 - 10 km, done at my marathon goal pace 5:27/km), one long run (20 - 30 km).

I probably wouldn’t have been able to keep up with my training schedule in Hong Kong or in New York. There’s always beers after work, or whoever’s birthday, or holiday gatherings. But this was the advantage of my new Vancouver life. The four runs each week filled up my previously sparse schedule. The Sunday long runs always left me feeling dead afterwards. I’m proud to say that I’ve only missed two to three training sessions in these past four months.

MY TRAINING RECORD

During four months of training, I’ve only missed a few sessions. At the peak of training, I ran 60 km a week.

Source: My Strava

The first few weeks of training was tough, but I slowly started to fall in love with the ritual of dedicating time to focusing on one thing. Running also took me out of the house more. (Very much a homebody!) There’s a gorgeous park in Vancouver called Stanley Park. I remember feeling awestruck when I first visited, but I’ve rarely been since. But now every Sunday, I would take my long run all around the park, where I got to see some of the best views of Vancouver. On one of my runs, it suddenly occurred to me that Hong Kong is just on the other side of this view in front of me, on the other side of the Pacific Ocean.

Stanley Park, where I ran every Sunday.

The favorite thing I’ve heard about running, is that running is like putting money in the bank. The more money you put in, the more you can take out on race day. I think this is one of the reasons I love running. In other things in life, you might not get things in return even if you give a lot. But with running, as long as you are willing to put one foot in front of the other, over and over again, you would always get something out of it.

MY LONG RUNS

My long runs every Sunday, I run through Downtown, and all around Stanley Park. The two times I did 30 km, my legs were completely destroyed. I couldn’t imagine how I could finish a marathon then.

Source: My Strava

THE BIG DAY

I arrived in Hong Kong two days ahead of the marathon. I was a ball of nerves leading up to the race. Taking a 15-hour flight and the time difference didn’t help much either. I could barely sleep.

The last week of training involve a process called “tapering” where you ran a lot less to let your body recover and prepare for race day. But I had gotten used to this huge volume of running these past months, so I had all this extra energy that helped fuel my angst. A friend told me to “trust the process.” I did a slow jog for 3 km the day before the race, constantly reminding myself to breathe and slow down.

On race day, I woke up at 3 in the morning for breakfast and coffee, still full from all the pasta and bread at dinner the night before. As I put on the same running clothes I’ve put on four times a week for the last four months, I kept telling myself, this is just like one of your Sunday long runs.

My dad helped me put on some sports tape. My brother dropped me off at the train station.

The area in Tsim Sha Tsui around the start line was a spectacle. I had to stand in line to pee twice (so nervous!) before I shuffled to the start line with thousands others.

Moving towards the start line.

And off we went! It was slowly becoming morning as I ran down Nathan Road. It felt unreal. I thought about the last time I had run on this roads, I thought about how hard training has been these past few months, then I started thinking about everything that has happened in these past few years. I began to tear up. I gave myself a mental shakedown to keep it together, I still had 42.195 kilometers to go.

It was slowly becoming morning as I crossed the start line.

The first 10 km was easy. But I was pretty nervous and maybe drank too much water, so I had to pee again. (Those precious seconds!) At the first portapotty I visited, I saw the biggest mountain of s**t I’ve ever seen in my life… Luckily, the next one was clean-ish.

I kept at it and I was constantly passing people. When I felt any pain in my legs, I told myself “not today!” By the time I hit the halfway mark, I still felt pretty normal and I had kept my target pace almost perfectly. I was feeling optimistic about hitting my sub4 goal.

Ting Kau Bridge, around 19 km.

But then… at round 27 km we were suddenly merged with the half marathon folks. It was insanely packed, and the half marathon crowd at that point was running at a much slower pace than I was. I alternated between f*cks and sorrys while I fought my way through the crowd.

I had a friend who was running the half marathon and I started looking for her. I thought I saw her and began yelling “JOYCE CHAN!! JOYCE CHAN!!!” As I ran up to said person and was about to tap her shoulder, I realized I had the wrong person. I zig-zagged away from her as fast as I could.

Then came the most memorable moment — the Western Harbour Crossing. The tunnel was a key moment of the race. After the tunnel, you’re in the homestretch with only 5 km left. And crossing the harbor on foot is something that not many people get to do.

As we descended into the tunnel, people began yelling 加油, whooping and cheering. The echo made everything louder and more sentimental. This brought back all kinds of memories from 2019 — major roads blocked, people running, yelling. I couldn’t help but shed a few tears as I filed this moment into my long-term memory.

Once we began ascending out of the tunnel, it was back to obstacle course mode. This was probably the worst stretch, the course narrowed as we went up an overpass and many started walking. I had to become aggressive about shuffling my way ahead.

As we reached the Central pier, we saw huge crowds cheering. I needed it.

I chugged water and gatorade at the last aid stop and I might have overdid it. I felt like I had to throw up as I sped up for the last 5 km. At this point I also saw a runner who was barefoot — might have been a hallucination, 85% sure it was real.

At the Wanchai waterfront, last 3 km.

There was one more overpass before we turned into the last stretch and a lot of people were walking and jamming the course. I was pretty worked up because I was ready for my mad dash towards the finish. At this point, I basically yelled for space to pass.

Then it was SOGO, and one last turn into Victoria Park. As I stepped onto the green sports ground, I ran full speed towards the finish line.

I had run a marathon in 3:50:55.

Crossing the finish line.

Right after the finish, captured by my brother.

I reread “The Alchemist” right before the marathon. A line in it said “When you want something, the whole universe conspires in order for you to achieve it.”

On race day, the weather was perfect. Barely any of the major pains and blisters I had during training came up. There were moments that I’ll never forget: running on Nathan Road as it became morning, cheering in the Western Harbor Crossing, friends and family meeting me at the finish, those from afar who tracked my little dot online. I could almost feel the power of the universe coming together.

I’ve been really focused on the sub4 marathon goal this last few months, but maybe the universe knew what I wanted more than myself — to be back in Hong Kong again.