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A Trail to See All of Hong Kong, All At Once 至少跑一次離譜的100K
On Nov. 29, 2024, I completed the 100-kilometer MacLehose Trail in my hometown in 23.5 hours. This was the longest distance I’ve ever completed in one go. I was full of doubt before I set off, but if I knew one thing, it was how to put one foot in front of the other. 2024 年 11 月 29 日,我用了 23.5 小時完成了麥理浩徑。這是我人生試過最長的距離。出發前,我對能否完成這件事充滿了懷疑,但我知道唯一可以做的就是踏出第一步。
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Prologue 前傳
The Trail 山徑
Spanning 100 kilometers across Hong Kong, the MacLehose Trail is the longest established trail in the city. People are always surprised when I tell them that Hong Kong, a famous metropolis, actually has an abundance of nature. This trail is everything I love about Hong Kong. Traversing the entire length of the city, it offers epic mountain views as well as panorama cityscapes. 麥理浩徑全程 100 公里,是香港最長的遠足徑。由西貢北潭涌橫跨整個香港,經過馬鞍山、獅子山、畢架山,穿過九龍之後,再繞過城門水塘、針山草山大帽山,終點於屯門。
I’ve backpacked the trail over three days before, and it was one of the most wonderful things I’ve ever done. But since I picked up trail running, a question has been brewing in the back of my head – could I possibly complete this whole trail, all 100 kilometers, in one go? 幾年前,我用三天全走麥徑,是我人生做過其中一件最難忘的事。後來開始跑步跑山,就在心裡種下了一個疑問:究竟我可不可以一口氣完成這條足足 100 公里的麥理浩徑呢?
For those with the burning question – but why? I don’t have a great answer other than I want to. Setting arbitrary stupid goals, a term coined by the writer Tamara Shopsin, has been a driving force in my pursuit of the meaning of life as I step into my 30s. Don’t you want to find out for how far and how long you can run for? 對於要挑戰 100 公里這個距離,或者你感到不明所以。其實我心裡也沒有什麼好解釋。大家不妨參考一下今年一首流行曲 —《至少做一件離譜的事》。這件離譜的事,為我今年的人生付予了很充實的意義。
My childhood friend, Stephanie, somehow agreed to this under my relentless urging. We had originally signed up for a race that later got cancelled, but there was no stopping us. We kept the original date, made our own bibs and arranged for friends and family to act as support stations. 這個離譜的想法,竟然有位中學同學阮應約。我們原本報了一個麥理浩徑的跑山比賽,但它沒有解釋取消了。但我們下定決心,自行發起活動並命名為 SUNFUYEAH 100 ,還自家製號碼布,安排了家人和朋友為我們補給,在原定的日子,出!發!
Our homemade bibs. SUNFUYEAH 100,參加人數:2。
Section 1 第一段
The Start 開始
We set off in the dark at 5:30 in the morning. The start was somewhat anticlimactic with just the two of us. 我們 5:30 到達起點,四周還是漆黑的。這個人生最長距離的挑戰,開始好像有點反高潮,只有我們二人靜靜地起跑。
The official start of the MacLehose Trail. 麥理浩徑起點
I was filled with nerves for what the day had in store for us. But as the moon slowly gave way to the sun, revealing the most gorgeous landscape, I was able to relax and knew that the most important thing was to enjoy myself (while I pushed my body to the brink.) 起步的時候還真的很緊張,不竟要做一件從來沒有做過的事。但當天空漸漸亮起來時,飽覽著萬宜水庫及西貢的美景,才放鬆下來,提醒自已(把自己的體能推至極限的同時)要好好去享受這件事情,畢竟不是常常有機會欣賞這樣的香港。
The moon. 月色多美
Section 2 - 4 第二至第四段
Hard But Okay 最緊要辛苦
We flew through the first few sections. We were surrounded by endless, epic views. It didn’t feel like the hard thing that it was supposed to be. 頭幾段雖然辛苦但可以說是享受。西貢的景色是世界級的,浪茄、西灣、遠眺蚺蛇尖、長咀讓人心曠神怡,甚至忘了我們正在挑戰 100 公里。
The views in Sai Kung are unreal. 西貢真係好靚
We arrived half an hour ahead of schedule for lunch and a resupply. (Special thanks to my parents!) 我們還比預期早了半小時到達補給點。(感謝爸媽!)
Section 5 第五段
The Turning Point 轉捩點
Section 5 is when the trail moves from rural parts to being closer to urban areas. We stopped to take in the whole view of the city. 第五段離開西貢走近九龍市區,在沙田坳道不忘停下來欣嘗香港全景。
City view. 香港城市景色
The trail is marked by these signposts every 500 meters. So when we reached M100, it meant we were halfway through. (Hey! ONLY 50K more to go!) 麥理浩徑每 500 米都會有標距柱,到了 M100 代表我們已經走了一半了!(只剩 50 公里而已!)
M100 signpost, 50 kilometers done, 50 more to go. M100 標距柱,完成 50 公里,還有 50 公里
We’ve been on the trail for 10 hours, but we were still feeling energized at this point. We ate and drank constantly, almost never letting ourselves go hungry or thirsty. 到這裡剛好過了 10 小時,我們還算精神。我們有跟教練指示,每小時起碼補 100 卡路里,整天我們都不停吃不停喝,維持能量。
But the second 50 kilometers was going to be the real challenge. I've run a marathon, I've done a 50k, but anything beyond this point was new territory to me. 但我知道後半的 50 公里才是真正的考驗。我跑過馬拉松,走過 50 公里,但從這裡開始的每一步,都是從沒踏足過的距離。
Section 6 - 8 第六至第八段
The Darkness 黑夜來臨
The distance had caught up with us. By the time we reached section 6, we were desperate. 到第六段時,開始崩潰了。
I had planned this stop poorly, forgetting the swarm of monkeys that dwell in this part of town. They’ve been around humans and packaged food for so long, that they would immediately jump you if you had any food or drinks in plain sight. 我在計劃這個補給點時失策了,忘記金山被馬騮佔據。他們跟人類相處太久,任何飲品跟食物只要暴露出來,就會給牠們搶掉。
Monkeys: 1, Humans: 0. 馬騮:1 , 人類:0
We had been looking forward to taking a break with a hot meal, it was what kept us going through the last section. Instead, all we could do was stuff supplies into our packs while the monkeys encircled us. We thanked our friends and moved on. It was 5:30 p.m., 12 hours since we started. 到這之前的尾段,我們開始意志消沉,一直在期待這個補給點的食物。但因為馬騮實在太猛了,我們唯有放棄吃飯,把可以帶的乾糧放進跑步背心裡,然後繼續前進。那時 5 時 30 分,已走了 12 小時。
As the sun set, the views were as gorgeous as the morning’s, but our mood was less pleasant. We continued to move, but there was no more chit-chatting, no more sprinting on the flats and downhill. 日落跟日出一樣美,但我們的心情卻跟出發時差很多。我們繼續前進,但都提不起勁聊天,提不起腿跑。
The sunset was as beautiful as the sunrise, but our mood was not as nice. 日落跟日出一樣美,但我們的心情卻很不一樣
It was completely dark when we reached a monkey-free spot and finally sat down for some food. We chomped on protein bars and other snacks, dreaming of the hot meal that we left behind. My friend burst into tears. 找到一個沒有馬騮的地方坐下來吃東西時,已經完全天黑了。我們吃著 soyjoy 條,內心想著剛才遺留了的飯盒,阮突然濠哭。
“This is so much harder than I thought it was going to be,” Stephanie said as she sobbed. 「我無諗過會咁辛苦!」
“And I really wanted fried rice.” 「同埋我真係好想食鹹魚雞粒炒飯!」
I laughed when I realized what was making her most upset was not the pain from the 56 kilometers and the dozen of peaks we’ve put behind us, but the lack of fried rice. 我大笑起來,因為我發現讓她最傷心的,不是有多辛苦,不是因為行了多少座山,而是因為沒有得吃鹹魚雞粒炒飯。
“We could just go home right now,” I suggested, not entirely joking. 「咁辛苦我地可以番屋企喎。」那時我們在城門水塘,我真的有在考慮離開。
But she was more determined than I was. 我在汽水機買了一罐冰凍可樂哄阮開心。她重新振作,比我更有決心。「已經走到這裡,我們一定可以完成。」
The next part was infamously tough, with three consecutive big climbs – Needle Hill, Grass Hill and Tai Mo Shan, the last being the tallest peak in Hong Kong. 休息後就要打大佬,針山、草山、還有全香港最高的大帽山。
Tack onto that, the 14 hours we’ve been out there, and the complete darkness around us. As we tackled peak after peak, I actually started to doze off… while walking! 14 小時的疲憊,加上漆黑的環境,在這段我體驗了跑山界傳說中一路走一路睡著的情況。我走著走著真的不知何時睡着了,然後 “中” 了一下才發現自己還在走路。
Sleep beckoned as we sat down to rest in the dark… 在漆黑中坐下來休息時,真的很想睡
Stephanie powered on ahead of me, more resolute than I was at this point. The little glow from her headlamp was my guiding light. I told myself I could not let that light out of my sight, as I closed my eyes periodically for mini naps. 阮在我前方默默前進,我就望著她頭燈弱弱的一點光,一步一步征服這座全香港最高的山。每次眨眼都多合上幾秒,當是補眠了一點吧。
Just follow the light… 向著光走 ⋯
When we finally reached the peak of Tai Mo Shan, a strong, cold gust slapped us awake. We’ve reached the highest point of the trail. 突然一陣強風打在我們的面上,我們終於到了大帽山頂了,也是整個麥理浩徑的最高點。
I felt like a new person, ready to run all the way downhill, where our friends awaited us with another resupply, this time monkeyfree. 我好像重生了一樣,準備奔向正在等待我們的朋友。這次可以沒有馬騮,好好地吃一頓了。
Section 9 - 10 第九至第十段
Running Til the End 向終點奔跑
It was midnight when we reached our last support station where friends met us with a hot meal (finally!), hot cocoa and coffee. 到了最後的補給點已是凌晨十二時。我們的朋友準備了熱食,熱朱古力,熱咖啡。(真的十萬分無限感激。)
FOOD! 食!飯!
The last two sections were more a mental challenge than physical. We kept each other awake by belting out pop songs from our childhood, feeling like somehow all the lyrics applied to us in this moment. 最後兩段,真的是用意志捱過。為了抗衡睡意,我們大聲高唱著我們中學時代的金曲。唱到《無間道》,突然覺得那歌詞很適合我們「明明我已奮力無間 天天上路/有沒有終點 誰能知道」。最後的九、十段,是我們的無間地獄。
It was past 4 a.m. when we reached the very last part of the trail which was 6 kilometers of flat road. 走到最後 6 公里的引水道,凌晨 4 點。
“Come on, this is it. Let’s run,” I said, putting away my trekking poles. We’ve somehow perfectly balanced each other out through this journey. I pushed her on the flats and downhills, while she led the way uphill. 「最後直路!跑吧!」我跟阮說。在這天的路途上,我們完美地互相補位。平路和下坡時就我推著她跑,上斜時就由阮帶領。
Stephanie started to jog, at first unwillingly. But slowly she sped up, and before I knew it, I was struggling to keep up. I’m normally a faster runner than her, my ego would not let her outrun me. 阮不情願地開始慢跑,但不知不覺間慢慢加速,越跑越快,直至我開始有點跟不上。我平常都比她跑得快,自尊心推著我已筋皮力盡的身體不斷跟著她加速。
At the very last kilometer, a cursed uphill stretch awaited us. I resorted to a power walk as she sprinted (how???) uphill. (I thought I was going to lose! Wait, is this suddenly a competition???) Thankfully a downhill followed where I caught up with her. Somehow, after 23.5 hours, we were still able to blast our way together to the finish. 在最後的 1 公里,竟然還有一個奪命斜。阮往上狂奔(點做到???)我只能快行。(我以為自己要輸了?等等,這是個比賽嗎?)幸好最後還有一段下坡,我拔足狂奔追上她,最後我們一同以 100 米的衝勁跑至這 100 公里的終點。
The official end of the MacLehose Trail. 麥理浩徑終點
Life checklist: 人生清單:
✅ 100 kilometers, MacLehose Trail ✅ 100K 麥理浩徑
Special thanks: Mom and dad, Showroom, Lam On Lok, 大細孖, Yiu, Our Legs™, everyone who cheered us on. 特別鳴謝我的家人、Showroom、林安樂、大細孖、瑤、我地對腳™、為我們打過氣的每一個人。